Barbounia

"How on earth did they get this octopus so tender?" I marveled. "It's blanched three times and then fire-grilled," said our waiter. The charred octopus appetizer, which also featured crunchy crystallized lemon zest, yellow grape tomatoes and fava beans, was the highlight of my meal at Barbounia.

I'd originally intended to try the restaurant's namesake appetizer (crispy barbounia), but due to weather conditions, the shipments of the little mullet had not arrived. So, in addition to the octopus, my companion and I ordered a picnic of starters: a board of sweet Italian salami with a tin of cornichons, and the trio of cheeses: olive-oil drizzled Parmesan and Taleggio with a terrine of pesto-topped ricotta. Oval cherry toasts, a branch of red grapes and some fig chutney accompanied the cheese. I wanted to order another serving and bring it to Central Park!

While we enjoyed the cheese, we sipped Abando Crianza, one of the excellent selections from the 20-page wine menu. (There was a rather long wait for the entree as the restaurant became increasingly full.) We shared the grilled dourade, which was crispy-skinned and redolent of thyme. Our sides were the herbed sunchokes and the creamy mascarpone polenta (yes, it's as good as it sounds).

Even though the cheese board was so dessertlike, we still ordered the special Moroccan chocolate pudding. This chocolate-cinnamon mousse was so dense that I could've eaten it with a knife and fork! It was topped with a healthy layer of whipped cream and served with churros. The fried donuts were not crunchy at all, but feather-light.

Barbounia: 250 Park Ave. South, (212) 995-0242.